Glass collectors, even those with many years experience, can be, and often are fooled into thinking that what they see on Ebay or have as a new addition to their stock or collection, is an authentic piece of vintage art-glass (ie older than 1980 at least).
However such is the variety of styles made in China that more informed researchers often have to break the news that their treasured item was actually made in China, (or other nations not traditionally associated with art-glass production.) in relatively recent years.
Decorative glassware production has boomed in China in recent years as production in so many of the more traditional locations has become uneconomic. The presented piece often has the superficial characteristics of "old", vintage or even antique styles, but is actually in collectpr terms "new". So the experienced, the "expert" or just the canny collector often has a double whammy of bad news to hit the hopeful newbie with.
Occasionally there is genuine age but the collector is unaware that China has been exporting decorative glass to western nations since the 1930's and possibly prior to that.
We leave aside here production of highly skilled pieces of Peking cameo glass and antique pate-de-vere which do have premium collector value. I am talking mainly about modern styles or faux-Victorian which often, though not always, ape antique or vintage styles traditionally produced in Europe or North America.
There used to be clues in the poor quality or finish of these items but in recent years, much less so. The Chinese have come a long way in a short time in mass market decorative glassmaking and even more so and quicker in items whcih may be called "art-glass". Their grasp of the more difficult techniques is surprising and the quality is improving by leaps and bounds. This, to the extent that I was prepared to believe that prestigiously located London shop, was displaying genuine Swedish glass until I saw the pieces clearly labeled "Made in China" below their bar code. When I examined pieces closely the quality seemed equal to that of many Swedish glass houses in production in the 1950s-70s which I am familiar with, even down to immaculately finished bases. This included the usually tell-tale, ground and polished-out pontil scar, finely presented as the perfectly circular dimple, normally associated with the better British and European art-glass houses in the heyday of mid-century modernism.
Often a quester cannot or will not believe that his item is Chinese. The attribution can almost never be proven because information on most Chinese production of the last 50 years or so is just not freely available. it is not in the interests of producers nor importers, wholesalers and retailers, who, unwittingly or not, benefit hugely from the mistakes of novice collectors.
It is not unknown for Ebay sellers to take advantage of these similarities. At one point a few years ago, brand new items from well known discount stores were frequently listed on Ebay as vintage, "mid-century", 50's, Eames era and other catch all as well as specific keywords for the unwary. This trade became so damaging that certain stores took quite drastic measures to put a stop to it and while there may still be some incidences, the average collector is now wary enough to be more cautious.
Very few glass items retain their label or sticker for long, if they ever had one. The origin of the consignment being stated on the containing carton or pallet. Such is the volume of imports from China into most prosperous western nations in recent years that it's best, always, to keep in mind that any piece up for identification with without reliable documentation in a well researched book or online database and with no signature, mark, or label, could be Chinese.
So how does the collector know what is Chinese ?
It's mainly down to experience and googling. As a collector you should take time out to familiarise yourself with what is known to be Chinese. Search importers catalogues online. Join an online or real-world collector group. Try the links below. Look for tell-tale signs in finish, style and colour. Ask yourself how it is that such a large, beautiful vase is going so cheaply.
Sometimes I can tell by the types and number of colours used.. Chinese producers went through a period when they liked to use, what to us would be an excessive number of colours in one piece. These pieces often appeal to younger, extrovert buyers. Sometimes it's an odd looking combination of colours. These may be colours which to the western eye almost clash or they may be colours which could not until very very recently be used in western glassmaking as glass chemistry had not yet made them available or compatible with each other.
You might also note that the colours are particularly "bright" or that they are certain shades are seen only in other Chinese glass. For example, there's a certain shade of almost pastel blue which is almost never seen in European glass and rarely in American. If the piece of your attention is more than 3 broadly defined colors - be wary. (exceptions : paperweight canes and some Murano Tutti Fruiti which also uses canes).
Sometimes this doesn't help as the piece you are looking at, has few or only one "normal" colors, or or of it's a colour usually associated with age. So you need to use other strategies. For example, I was very taken by a yellow cut glass "Victorian" lamp at a very reasonable price on Ebay. Especially so as the piece looked very much as though it was what collectors call "vaseline" glass, meaning that uranium was used, a particularly desirable type of glass for the collector.
I was suspicious first of all because of it's pristine condition when you would have expected at very least a few nibbles in such a piece because of it's presumed age (by the style) . However, I did not suspect that the Chinese made this sort of glass. It wasn't until I looked to see what other glass the seller had that my suspicions were aroused.
The seller had many repeated items where you wouldn't expect more than one and finally, some more obvious pieces of Chinese glass. Unless my intended purchase is easily identifiable I almost always check out 'seller other items' for this reason. It also tells me what kind of seller I'm dealing with.
Some Chinese pieces of recent years do show some originality in design while others are quite obviously reproductions or homages to earlier times and other places.
Here are some in the gallery of my former friend Terry now sadly deceased.
Terry Norwood's Chinese Glass Gallery
These pieces were bought from new and were labeled.
Other links to websites which show Chinese Glass as well as the websites of Importers and manufacturers.
Paperweights
http://www.paperweights.com/chinese.htm
Importers of Chinese Glass
Rikaro Crystal
AA Importing Company
Art as Antiques
Helen & Phil Rosso, Wholesale Glass Dealers, Inc
Chinese Glass Manufacturers
YONGCHANG GLASS
Zibo Zhaohai Light Industries
Other Sources
http://www.repronews.com
The Glass Museum Online - Article: Chinese Reproductions -not Victorian glass vases!
Glassaholic Glass Links Library - Oriental
Ebay - Items with 'Made in China' labels
A manufacturer of modern contemporary decorative glass in Thailand
Eastern Glass Thailand
Thursday, 26 July 2007
Saturday, 5 May 2007
Broken Glass
I am a glass fiend. Not just a collector of art glass but also a researcher, seller, buyer, swapper, writer and all round glassoholic.
Today my nerves, never very good at the best of times, were shattered by openning a newly arrived parcel of broken glass.
I'm shaking because I'm in shock, sad and angry that the sender cared not enough about this beautiful object.
I'm angry at them becuase they couldn't or wouldn't even follow my very basic and simple instuctions on how to package this very delicate item.
This, my second piece of broken glass in a month has made me angry enough to do something about it.
I had already taken some photos of broken pieces I'd receieved from Ebay - now I can put them to good use.
Here's is some glass I got broken a few months ago.



Most Ebay sellers are contrite and co-operative. Some offer an immediate refund. Others assist in making a claim against the Post Office. A few, a very few, are argumentative and obstructive.
Most breakages en route can be avoided with proper packaging.
Glass and ceramics should have a layer of tissue paper (or kitchen roll etc) before bubble-wrap.
1) At least 3 layers of bubble-wrap. (This may be one large piece wrapped around 3 times)
If you don't have any, wrap the item with one layer of tissue and one of newspaper. Then surround it with at least one layer of newspaper scrunched up into balls and tape them on. You should end up with something that is at least double the volume of the item secured with lost of packing tape or Sellotape.
2) A roll of card-board around drinking glasses and other delicate thin walled glass pieces.
3) Minimum 3", preferably 4"+ space between the bubble-wrapped item and the walls of a strong box to be packed with: (in order of preference)
a) Expanded polystyrene lining all sides of the box & Polystyrene packing chips to fill the gaps.
b) Polystyrene packing chips
Failing those and if needs must
c) Tightly scrunched up single pages of newspaper, layered below and packed around the sides and on top of the item.
( C is not recommended as newspaper compacts during shipping especially if the item is particularly heavy and add more weight so will most likely increase postage costs)
** Do NOT use shredded paper. This does not hold the item in place. It compacts significantly during shipping and adds a great deal of weight to the parcel increasing postage costs significantly and unnecessarily.
The box should be strong enough to contain the item without bulging and without movement and be able to withstand rough handling and dropping.
Finding the right box for a particular item is often the most time consuming aspect of packing which in itself is the most arduous aspect of selling online.
Today my nerves, never very good at the best of times, were shattered by openning a newly arrived parcel of broken glass.
I'm shaking because I'm in shock, sad and angry that the sender cared not enough about this beautiful object.
This, my second piece of broken glass in a month has made me angry enough to do something about it.
I had already taken some photos of broken pieces I'd receieved from Ebay - now I can put them to good use.
Here's is some glass I got broken a few months ago.
Most Ebay sellers are contrite and co-operative. Some offer an immediate refund. Others assist in making a claim against the Post Office. A few, a very few, are argumentative and obstructive.
Most breakages en route can be avoided with proper packaging.
Glass and ceramics should have a layer of tissue paper (or kitchen roll etc) before bubble-wrap.
1) At least 3 layers of bubble-wrap. (This may be one large piece wrapped around 3 times)
If you don't have any, wrap the item with one layer of tissue and one of newspaper. Then surround it with at least one layer of newspaper scrunched up into balls and tape them on. You should end up with something that is at least double the volume of the item secured with lost of packing tape or Sellotape.
2) A roll of card-board around drinking glasses and other delicate thin walled glass pieces.
3) Minimum 3", preferably 4"+ space between the bubble-wrapped item and the walls of a strong box to be packed with: (in order of preference)
a) Expanded polystyrene lining all sides of the box & Polystyrene packing chips to fill the gaps.
b) Polystyrene packing chips
Failing those and if needs must
c) Tightly scrunched up single pages of newspaper, layered below and packed around the sides and on top of the item.
( C is not recommended as newspaper compacts during shipping especially if the item is particularly heavy and add more weight so will most likely increase postage costs)
** Do NOT use shredded paper. This does not hold the item in place. It compacts significantly during shipping and adds a great deal of weight to the parcel increasing postage costs significantly and unnecessarily.
The box should be strong enough to contain the item without bulging and without movement and be able to withstand rough handling and dropping.
Finding the right box for a particular item is often the most time consuming aspect of packing which in itself is the most arduous aspect of selling online.
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